Perhaps the single best train ride I’ve experienced, the journey from Bergen to Flam to Oslo is what you would expect to experience if you combined the boat ride from Anchorage to Vancouver with a scenic drive through Yellowstone, Wyoming. The white desolation of forever-snow fields & frozen mountain lakes leaves you mystified, as the steep fjord canyons & the small red houses speckling the green rock cliffs keeps alive one’s desire to live in as many places as one can in one lifetime.

We drank cappuccinos, took photos, hugged for warmth, made friends with two lovely women (Londoners via Hong Kong & Singapore) with degrees in environmental policy, & watched a bizarre song & dance duo put on an Irish-sounding performance next to a waterfall literally in the middle of nowhere, popping from behind the ruins of what was either a castle or a bakery. Now we’re at Karmen’s with little Gryf, catching up, eating breakfast, & telling stories. The trip’s been amazing so far & it only looks to improve.

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